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Nike Air Force I
By sneakerologist
Published: November 10, 2008
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Ladies and gentlemen, I present to you - the Air Force I !

The Air Force 1 is Nike's best selling shoe. Ever. It is also a shoe whose silhouette has practically remained unchanged for the last 25 years, and has been produced in almost 2000 different variants till date. The shoe also holds the unbelievable but incredible record of not having any advertisement or marketing money spent on it till just a few years ago. It is also the universal favorite when it comes to customization and collaboration with streetwear actives like Stussy, Aka and Fujiwara. The Japanese streetwear brand, A Bathing Ape (BAPE) has its own version of the Air Force 1 - the BAPEsta's which has unofficial stamp of legitimacy from Nike. Since its launch in 1982~83, the Air Force one has been worn by basketball players, Hip hop stars, graffiti artists, and fashion savvy kids. The Air Force 1 still remains one of the best selling sneakers of all time, perhaps second to only Chuck Taylor All Stars.

So what made the Air Force I one of the most coveted sneakers in the world? A little history should be able to answer that question...

The original Nike Air Force I: It came in an ankle length cut with a Nylon strap, a mesh quarter panel and no perforations (holes) in the toe box.

The year was 1982, and Nike had just launched the Nike Air technology in 1979 in form of the Tailwind. Nike designers were thinking of where to use the air technology next, and a basketball shoe seemed the obvious choice because of the punishing physical stress the foot went through. So Bruce Kilgore, a young designer at Nike, came up with the design of the original Air Force I (see picture above) and in an interview to the 'Sole Collector' magazine, he said that 'he was inspired by a hiking boot' -a shoe called the Nike Approach and had elements which helped in superior ankle support. Not surprisingly, some of the design lines in the AF1 reflect a direct influence from the Approach boot

The Nike AF1 was not only the first basketball shoe to feature Nike Air cushioning, but also incorporated new radical ideas in upper and outsole design. The outsole had a distinctive 'concentric circle' design in the heel and under the ball of the foot, which helped not only in turning quickly, but also in keeping the slippery dust off the sole. The outsole also had a 'star' texture towards the tip of the toe and the heel, which also helped in maintaining a better grip while jumping and landing. The periphery of the outsole had grooves built in for better further slip resistance, and this durable outsole was had a 360 degree stitching to the upper, and the Air Force 1 was probably one of the earliest Nike shoes to adopt such a construction.

And the name itself was an allusion to the US presidential jet, the Air Force I. How fitting.

The base of the Air Force 1: Concentric circle pivot points under the ball of the foot and the heel. The toe and heel area is accentuated with a 'star' texture to minimize slipping.

Stitch 'em up: The white rubber is stitched to the leather upper all around, resulting in a near indestructible package.

The original Air Force 1 came only in Hi cuts, and had a removable nylon strap with Velcro for ankle support. Though this is all very basic stuff in this day and age, the shoe was cutting edge in 1982. The Air Force I was discontinued the next year, and it led to an unnatural demand for the Air Force I, fueled by consumers who could no longer find the shoe in the store. Ultimately, in 1984, three retailers in Baltimore (Maryland, USA) - Downtown Locker room, Cinderella shoes and Charley Rudo's Sports petitioned Nike to reintroduce the Air Force I, and thus the shoe was reborn in Baltimore. So if Nike had not heeded to the petition back then, they would have lost the opportunity to own one of the best selling shoes in history. But they did listen, and that made all the difference.

The year was '82: An anodized metal lace attachment commemorates the shoe name and the year of launch. Nike says the laces used in theAF1 are stain resistant, but I don't want to contest that claim on a pair of pristine white AF1's.

Most of the early adopters of the Nike Air Force 1 originated from Harlem, a neighborhood in New York known to be the center of the African-American culture and the people who wore them shoes either played basketball, were into the emerging hip hop scene and were just kids who wanted to look the part. The Air Force I had a few nicknames back then, popular out of them being the Nike Uptowns or simply the Nike Airs. The shoe was called the Uptown because no one wore them in Downtown but mostly in Harlem, where the African-Americans stayed and which was called the 'Uptown' neighbourhood. The current day popularity of the shoe was a result of a very gradual evolution; it grew out of New York (Harlem) and Baltimore and then it started its journey into mainstream urban culture as more and more influencers began wearing the Air Force 1's. Also the fact that rag to riches hip hop icon Jay Z (along with Damon Dash) wore these shoes, had a huge positive impact on the following of the Air Force 1. In 2002, hip hop star Nelly and his crew, St. Lunatics released the music video the 'Nike Air Force 1' which eulogized the Nike Air Force 1. It went on to sell 7 million copies. Here is the link to the complete lyrics of the song, and you can watch the music video below:

 


Nelly - Air Force Ones
 
 
If you thought Air Jordans were the most popular kicks ever, then consider this: in 2002, Nike sold 250,000 Air Jordans and in comparison, the Air Force 1 sold a mind numbing 15 million pairs. To put things in perspective, it's like the entire population of Mumbai wearing a pair of Air Force 1's. And I mean everyone, from a just born baby to a 90 year old, and from filmstars to the dabbawala. That's how many pairs of the shoe sold in a single year. That's a lot.

 
Last year, in January 2007, the Nike Air Force I celebrated its 25th Anniversary and Nike released many limited edition AF1's including the 'Chosen One' collection, a theme inspired by basketball athletes who are said to be the original adopters of the Nike AF1 - Moses Malone, Michael Cooper, Jamaal Wilkes, Bobby Jones, Mychal Thompson and Calvin Natt. They also sold a super limited edition AF1 'Lux' for USD 2,000, complete with Italian handcrafting, Python skin and gold trims. I did see some of the AF1's land up in India around that time - like the Cooper, Bobby Jones, Wilkes and Lebron versions, along with the white on white AF1 which you see today in this review. Considering that, it's slightly surprising that the Nike stores here have completely dried up as far as AF1's are concerned.
 
 
 
The call of the AF1: The right sockliner has the 'Air Force1' screened on, while the left has the year of launch.
 
Whatever the cultural influences might have been which took the popularity of the AF1 to new levels, the fact remains that the AF1 is a universal favorite because it looks and feels rich, is not the most expensive shoe on the market, is comfortable and is durable enough to stand the test of time. From a design perspective, the Nike Air Force one is a visual delight and a likely canvas for unlimited customization. The clean lines of the upper blends in whatever you wear, and the white pristine full grain leather upper gives you a feeling you rarely get in these days of synthetic leather, mesh and Velcro. The shoe feels unlike any other flat sneaker like the Dunk or the Samba - the soft leather upper feels superbly fitting, and the combination of molded foam sockliner and Nike Air takes care of any misgivings you might have had about the flat rubber outsole. And oh, the rubber cupsole which is stitched to the upper - utterly indestructible unless you throw the shoe into a foundry.
 
The AF1 is not shoe - it is a legend, a cultural icon. Considering what it is, it amazes me that it took so long for me to find a pair in the stores here. Nike - we are waiting, bring the AF1 arsenal right on!
 
 
 
 
 


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